The Country Club in Costa Mesa is one of the many restaurants owned by Mario Marovic and business partner Andrew Gabriel—the Business Journal’s Restaurateurs of the Year for 2021—under their Lounge Group moniker.
It opened at the tail end of 2017, and has a dual identity as a classic clubby restaurant that transforms into a late-night party spot after 10 p.m.
The Country Club has debuted new seasonal menu items; Executive Chef Eddie Hyman says the new dishes celebrate “the flavors of spring and summer, featuring vibrant, colorful dishes that reflect [his] artisan approach to scratch cooking.”
The new menu reads like a list of “greatest hits” showcasing Hyman’s take on comfort classics elevated with a coastal Californian twist.
Seasonal editions to the menu include raw starters like ahi crudo in coconut-lime ponzu; and the half and half seasonal oysters and wild Mexican shrimp with house cocktail sauce, horseradish and mignonette.
Entrée stars of the menu include a selection of steaks and housemade pastas, and nightly off-menu Wagyu specials. Pasta dishes include truffled lamb Bolognese tagliatelle with parmesan and fresh chives, and a spinach and mushroom stroganoff with lemon zest and whipped créme fraîche.
There are also seafood selections including Chilean seabass with succotash, and King Ora salmon with parmesan gnocchi.
Moving Menus
“I try to keep the menu moving along, especially for people that come here often—they want to see something new,” said Hyman, who has been in the kitchen since the restaurant first opened.
In addition to new dishes, Hyman runs specials to take advantage of opportunities as they come.
“Last week I obtained some prime filets, so I did a carpaccio, but then thought of doing a barbecued steak tartare,” Hyman said.
The Country Club is open nightly for dinner beginning at 4 p.m., and weekend brunch is served Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
Tomahawk Twosday features a $137 40-ounce Tomahawk ribeye with a salad and side. Wine Wednesday offers half-off bottles and free corkage with the purchase of an entrée.
A jazz band plays on the first and third Thursday of each month. DJs crank up the volume until 1:30 a.m. on Friday and Saturday nights.
The Country Club is open nightly for dinner beginning at 4 p.m., and weekend brunch is served Saturday and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.
The OCBJ Review: BY CHRISTOPHER TRELA
The barbequed steak tartare is one of the special dishes Hyman had me try when I dined at The Country Club last month.
The smokiness of the dish—which arrived under a dome of smoke—was wonderful. Add chipotle aioli and Worcestershire sauce, and you have an elevated tartare that ranks among the best I’ve had.
The beet salad with roasted beets and blue cheese dressing was also excellent.
“I pickle the beets to tone down the earthiness, and blue cheese and beets go well together,” said Executive Chef Eddie Hyman.
“I add hazelnuts for crunch. I used to over-complicate things, but more ingredients are not always better. I start with four flavors and then enhance that.”
The beet salad is well composed, and the blue cheese does not overwhelm the other flavors.
The ahi crudo was next with coconut lime ponzu and basil aioli.
“It’s sushi-grade ahi, sliced thin, with salt and pepper, and a coconut ponzu,” Hyman said.
“I like Thai flavors. I use white soy and coconut water instead of milk, brown sugar, lime, and on top are candied pecans with simple syrup. Shallots are shaved tin, add salt and sugar and let it set, and I add pickled deseeded jalapeño.”
This is another outstanding dish, well balanced and fun to eat, with flavors that linger on the palate.
I ended my dinner with spinach and mushroom stroganoff with seasonal mushrooms, Dijon, lemon zest, whipped crème fraiche, and gremolata.
As a mushroom lover, I love this dish. It’s pasta perfection on a plate. Every bite is a mouthful of flavor.
The Country Club: 330 E. 17th St., Costa Mesa, (949) 281-2582, countryclubcm.com
